My BlackBerry is still frozen and I will try to get to the telephone shop later today.
Stone by Stone
Sue held her breakfast meeting at Cafe Felisa on Rue da Pena this morning. It was a small group of pilgrims, four who had just finished their first camino walk, a young lass who works in the pilgrim shop as you enter SdC, then myself and another woman who have walked multiple times (as well as Sue of course). The session was videotaped by Sue´s Stone by Stone company for a DVD - the topic was about pilgrim experiences along the way and the effect this may have on the return journey home .... Suseya!.
A young man who had found Sue crying because she was lost on her al contrario walk in Torres del Rio told of his story of their meeting. Having heard Sue´s version yesterday this young man does not know how much of an Angel he was to her. A couple from Virginia, USA, had downloaded Sue´s Las Peregrinas DVD onto their iPhone before leaving the USA and watched it many times. Then they saw Sue walking toward them and recognized her. The couple arrived in Santiago last night after a 55kms walk. This couple became engaged along the way and are so happy, they radiate happiness. A man from Germany was apologetic about starting in Sarria and being only a 100k pilgrim. I do not like this 100k distinction as we are all pilgrims along the way whether we start in other European countries and walk from home or start in Sarria. With the use of the terms tourist pilgrims, bus pilgrims, 100k pilgrims and the disdain for those who use a mochilla taxi tells me those folks still have some learning to do.
Movin´On
There was not an available seat on the afternoon train to Ponferrada today so I am on the 0925 train in the morning, one of the last three tickets. This means I will be in Ponferrada in time to get set up before the big game tomorrow evening. Immediately after Spain beat Germany if came over the television, again in those split second shots, I may have this wrong, I have only seen it the once.
los tulipanes esta seca/ni agua/podemos
my translation: the tulips are dry/nor water/we can
I will be having dinner with Sue tonight and then we will attend a concert that she has tickets for. I was invited to breakfast tomorrow at the Parador but will have to miss that. What a shame, however I must move on.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Friday, July 09, 2010
Santiago de Compostela
STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS
My BlackBerry is frozen and will not pick up an SMS that I have been sent. I do not know if this problem will last but for now there is a problem.
Yesterday it rained so I spent the day indoors, first at noon Mass to see the Botafumero swing, it did not, then at a couple of churches and museums, in other words a tourist day in SdC.
This morning I went to the Correos (Post Office) and mailed home stuff I do not need for the next part of my journey. Then to Rolf´s Bar (Cafe Sanguesia) for breakfast, it is a beautiful day in SdC. At 12:45pm I decided to go to the Cathedral to see if the Botafumero would swing today (it swings around one after noon Mass). The Botafumero swang today, so now each time I have been in SdC I have seen it swing.
Surprise in Santiago de Compostela
We pilgrims have a saying .... This is the Camino.
After Mass I returned to Rolf´s Bar for lunch, sitting there I was thinking how nice it would be to share the wine and I looked up into the face of Sue Kenney. I waved and started to stand up, Sue had a baffled look on her face, I took off my sunglasses and she said, hello Luiza. We laughed at the coincidences of the Camino as we met along the way last year (by chance) and now again in 2010. We have emailed each other over the years but until last year we had not met. Sue walked al contrario this year from Santiago de Compostela to St. Jean Pied de Port. Sue is an amazing woman and has given a series of talks in Santiago this month with the last one being held tomorrow morning at 0900 (I will be there). Sue has written two books about her camino experiences as well as a DVD ... Google: Sue Kenney. Then she told me that another email contact over the years, Tracey Saunders, who is also an author, will be there tomorrow. I am interested in meeting Tracey as well as being there for Sue. So, what I thought would be a quick lunch was three hours of of fun and friendship from along the way, exchanging stories and laughs.
Last month Sue started walking with a group from VF del Bierzo (she leads groups along the way) then when in SdC she decided on her al contrario walk. I knew that Sue was along the way somewhere because she had mentioned it on the web but I was not looking for her. Sue has suggested that I return to SdC for the festivities on July 25. After all Luiza it is Anos Santo 2010 .... hmmm, I don´t think there will be standing room in SdC let alone sleeping accommodation.
Pilgrims in SdC
Caroline if you are reading this please post what you wish onto Ultreya (I will try but my login might not work).
It is so beautiful to watch the pilgrims come into the city alone or in groups. Not only walking, bicycle, or horse pilgrims of course because all those who come here this year are pilgrims. I saw perhaps 30 children (under 10) all in the same color tee shirts I went closer to photograph them, perhaps for my web pages, and noticed that it was a group of school children from Ecuador, amazing! As I said to Sue, for the next Anos Santo in eleven years they will all be old enough to walk the way if they wish. Three woman pilgrims walked passed me at Praza Da Inmaculada proudly wearing their Chile tee-shirts and there are many last 100kms groups of pilgrims with matching shirts (obvious by their small daypacks) - the place is crowded.
I have never seen lines like this year in SdC. The Credencial line at the Pilgrim´s Office was out the door and around the corner, then up the street, 4 and 5 people wide, a huge line. The line to Porta Anos Santos (Praza Da Quintana) is 1-2 hours long in the hot sun or drizzling rain yesterday. It is the same with the entrance to the Cathedral which can only be entered from Praza Das Praterias, not Praza Do Obradoiro the front steps as usual - the steps are blocked for entrance. The Cathedral exit is at Praza Da Inmacalada this year. Having asked the guard for the best time to avoid long lines at all three places he suggested 0830, 1500, or 1700 and sure enough the lines are short at those times (observed).
I think the most important information I can give is that backpacks are not allowed inside the Cathedral this year. There is a backpack/mochilla office two doors down from the Pilgrim Office on Rua Do Vilar. I see many pilgrims waiting in line with their backpacks on and I feel so sad for them. I have told some of the change but I am not the backpack police if you know what I mean. The police guards could easily go along the lines and tell these folks to save them two hours waiting only to be turned away at the door, but unfortunatly they do not.
Moving on - Ponferrada
I am leaving SdC and will start towards Villa Franca del Bierzo where I should be volunteering for Albergue Ave Fenix. I take the train to Ponferrada and walk one day along the camino to VF. There is a computer at the Albergue but if my memory serves me correctly, and Jesus Jato has not updated the computer, it is an old and problematic computer.
My BlackBerry is frozen and will not pick up an SMS that I have been sent. I do not know if this problem will last but for now there is a problem.
Yesterday it rained so I spent the day indoors, first at noon Mass to see the Botafumero swing, it did not, then at a couple of churches and museums, in other words a tourist day in SdC.
This morning I went to the Correos (Post Office) and mailed home stuff I do not need for the next part of my journey. Then to Rolf´s Bar (Cafe Sanguesia) for breakfast, it is a beautiful day in SdC. At 12:45pm I decided to go to the Cathedral to see if the Botafumero would swing today (it swings around one after noon Mass). The Botafumero swang today, so now each time I have been in SdC I have seen it swing.
Surprise in Santiago de Compostela
We pilgrims have a saying .... This is the Camino.
After Mass I returned to Rolf´s Bar for lunch, sitting there I was thinking how nice it would be to share the wine and I looked up into the face of Sue Kenney. I waved and started to stand up, Sue had a baffled look on her face, I took off my sunglasses and she said, hello Luiza. We laughed at the coincidences of the Camino as we met along the way last year (by chance) and now again in 2010. We have emailed each other over the years but until last year we had not met. Sue walked al contrario this year from Santiago de Compostela to St. Jean Pied de Port. Sue is an amazing woman and has given a series of talks in Santiago this month with the last one being held tomorrow morning at 0900 (I will be there). Sue has written two books about her camino experiences as well as a DVD ... Google: Sue Kenney. Then she told me that another email contact over the years, Tracey Saunders, who is also an author, will be there tomorrow. I am interested in meeting Tracey as well as being there for Sue. So, what I thought would be a quick lunch was three hours of of fun and friendship from along the way, exchanging stories and laughs.
Last month Sue started walking with a group from VF del Bierzo (she leads groups along the way) then when in SdC she decided on her al contrario walk. I knew that Sue was along the way somewhere because she had mentioned it on the web but I was not looking for her. Sue has suggested that I return to SdC for the festivities on July 25. After all Luiza it is Anos Santo 2010 .... hmmm, I don´t think there will be standing room in SdC let alone sleeping accommodation.
Pilgrims in SdC
Caroline if you are reading this please post what you wish onto Ultreya (I will try but my login might not work).
It is so beautiful to watch the pilgrims come into the city alone or in groups. Not only walking, bicycle, or horse pilgrims of course because all those who come here this year are pilgrims. I saw perhaps 30 children (under 10) all in the same color tee shirts I went closer to photograph them, perhaps for my web pages, and noticed that it was a group of school children from Ecuador, amazing! As I said to Sue, for the next Anos Santo in eleven years they will all be old enough to walk the way if they wish. Three woman pilgrims walked passed me at Praza Da Inmaculada proudly wearing their Chile tee-shirts and there are many last 100kms groups of pilgrims with matching shirts (obvious by their small daypacks) - the place is crowded.
I have never seen lines like this year in SdC. The Credencial line at the Pilgrim´s Office was out the door and around the corner, then up the street, 4 and 5 people wide, a huge line. The line to Porta Anos Santos (Praza Da Quintana) is 1-2 hours long in the hot sun or drizzling rain yesterday. It is the same with the entrance to the Cathedral which can only be entered from Praza Das Praterias, not Praza Do Obradoiro the front steps as usual - the steps are blocked for entrance. The Cathedral exit is at Praza Da Inmacalada this year. Having asked the guard for the best time to avoid long lines at all three places he suggested 0830, 1500, or 1700 and sure enough the lines are short at those times (observed).
I think the most important information I can give is that backpacks are not allowed inside the Cathedral this year. There is a backpack/mochilla office two doors down from the Pilgrim Office on Rua Do Vilar. I see many pilgrims waiting in line with their backpacks on and I feel so sad for them. I have told some of the change but I am not the backpack police if you know what I mean. The police guards could easily go along the lines and tell these folks to save them two hours waiting only to be turned away at the door, but unfortunatly they do not.
Moving on - Ponferrada
I am leaving SdC and will start towards Villa Franca del Bierzo where I should be volunteering for Albergue Ave Fenix. I take the train to Ponferrada and walk one day along the camino to VF. There is a computer at the Albergue but if my memory serves me correctly, and Jesus Jato has not updated the computer, it is an old and problematic computer.
Wednesday, July 07, 2010
Madrid then Santiago de Compostela
Phew it is hot. The country is scorching today and I have memories of 2003 when the heatwave struck Europe. Let me start back in Madrid ....
Madrid - July 5
We started at the same cafe in Plaza Mayor as yesterday for desayuno because Kees wanted Vicente to taste their tostadas con tomate . While sitting in Plaza Mayor the Royal Guards on horseback started to assemble, then came the horse and carriages. While walking to the palace Vicente mentioned that although he had called earlier the palace would be closed. If a Royal function is taking place the Royal palace is closed, the King does not live at the palace he only performs royal duties there. Vicente was correct, however, what was to be a visit to the Royal Palace turned into a Royal treat.
Four ambassadors were being presented to the King, the horse guards in front of a black limousine then more horse guards followed by the horse drawn gold carriages. On arrival at the palace the Royal band plays the Anthem of the Ambassador as the limo passes them. The ambassador is taken through an archway to the palace in the limo, he presents his papers then leaves in the horse drawn carriage. This went on all morning and we saw three presentation parades. I thought of Andree and wondered how many times her father had been presented to a King, Queen, or President and was she with her parents at the time.
We visited the Cathedral opposite the palace which is gothic in design but with modern decorations. The cathedral is highly colored inside but simple, not over done. I loved this Cathedral, as did Kees, but Vicente who is an art dealer, is not happy with it. Again it was a hot day so across the street is a famous Vermouth bar where we sat and had a drink. This time in Spain I have learned how to order my decaf iced coffee so I am a happy camper. Meanwhile Laura, Vicente's maid for twenty plus years and now friend, was preparing a wonderful lunch for us at home.
What a treat to be staying in a family home in Madrid. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of salad, then swordfish cooked Laura style followed by melon and pastries. Kees was off on an earlier train than me so it was farewells and thanks, thanks for a wonderful time in Madrid Kees and Vicente. I have grown to understand and appreciate siesta especially in this heat, so while Kees and Vicente went to the train station I went for siesta. More Chinchon later in the evening where I did win a game but Vicente came up with Chinchon, a same suit straight, in three hands for the next game. It was a perfect end to a lovely day and a fantastic visit to Madrid.
Santiago de Compostela
I arrived yesterday morning in this wonderful city of pilgrims and tourists. It is very crowded with bus loads of tourists, groups of students, and village folks all in same color shirt with their village (or country) name proudly displayed. I understand that folks want a souvenir from SdC but why do they buy a walking stick with shell and gourd and walk around like a pilgrim without the obvious signs of blisters or injuries.
To see the pilgrims arriving brings back many different memories for me. Some with injured knees and ankles obvious by the braces and others with many plasters all over their feet and toes (seen when wearing sandals). They are limping and walking slowly, this was me in 2002 and 2007 before I worked on blisters and had many, ouch, and then in 2008, 2009, and 2010 with my knee problems.
This year backpacks are not allowed in the Cathedral so a backpack area is available in the building beside the Pilgrim Office. Pilgrims can leave their backpacks while searching for their needs in SdC (hotel/albergue etc.) or visiting the Cathedral.
Yesterday, when I saw the line to pass through the Porta Año Santo I thought oh no, not in this hot sun. For those who do not know, this door is only open during the Saints year and people come from around the world to pass through it. I asked the guard for the best time to visit, he told me 0830, 1500, or 1900 so before three o'clock I sat at Rolf's Bar and called Rolf to let him know I was once again thinking of him in Santiago. Not only Rolf am I thinking of my special friend Rolf but there are many pilgrims friends who come to mind, Roland, Kees, Wolf, Kim, Bauke, Maureen, Martin, Connie, Aard, Ashley, Steve they are all special people to me. I watched the line get smaller and smaller ... then went over and joined the line, I was in through the Porta Año Santo in ten minutes. This year you pass through the door and are directed one way through to Saint James then down to the crypt and outside. The Porta Gloria in unfortunately still undergoing reconstruction and cannot be seen. There are new Museo displays open for this year and it is excellent. I had a wonderful day rediscovering SdC.
I tried to load photos for the Blog but am afraid the computer is going to select all photos on my disk, so sorry no photos.
World Cup Semi Final
Spain vs. Germany
I just have to post this .... today on television I have seen twice the little dig at Germany: Adios Alemania/otro vez/podemos (Goodbye Germany/another time/we can). The folks are all wearing the Spanish colors or draped in the flag and the game is about to begin .... more later.
Madrid - July 5
We started at the same cafe in Plaza Mayor as yesterday for desayuno because Kees wanted Vicente to taste their tostadas con tomate . While sitting in Plaza Mayor the Royal Guards on horseback started to assemble, then came the horse and carriages. While walking to the palace Vicente mentioned that although he had called earlier the palace would be closed. If a Royal function is taking place the Royal palace is closed, the King does not live at the palace he only performs royal duties there. Vicente was correct, however, what was to be a visit to the Royal Palace turned into a Royal treat.
Four ambassadors were being presented to the King, the horse guards in front of a black limousine then more horse guards followed by the horse drawn gold carriages. On arrival at the palace the Royal band plays the Anthem of the Ambassador as the limo passes them. The ambassador is taken through an archway to the palace in the limo, he presents his papers then leaves in the horse drawn carriage. This went on all morning and we saw three presentation parades. I thought of Andree and wondered how many times her father had been presented to a King, Queen, or President and was she with her parents at the time.
We visited the Cathedral opposite the palace which is gothic in design but with modern decorations. The cathedral is highly colored inside but simple, not over done. I loved this Cathedral, as did Kees, but Vicente who is an art dealer, is not happy with it. Again it was a hot day so across the street is a famous Vermouth bar where we sat and had a drink. This time in Spain I have learned how to order my decaf iced coffee so I am a happy camper. Meanwhile Laura, Vicente's maid for twenty plus years and now friend, was preparing a wonderful lunch for us at home.
What a treat to be staying in a family home in Madrid. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of salad, then swordfish cooked Laura style followed by melon and pastries. Kees was off on an earlier train than me so it was farewells and thanks, thanks for a wonderful time in Madrid Kees and Vicente. I have grown to understand and appreciate siesta especially in this heat, so while Kees and Vicente went to the train station I went for siesta. More Chinchon later in the evening where I did win a game but Vicente came up with Chinchon, a same suit straight, in three hands for the next game. It was a perfect end to a lovely day and a fantastic visit to Madrid.
Santiago de Compostela
I arrived yesterday morning in this wonderful city of pilgrims and tourists. It is very crowded with bus loads of tourists, groups of students, and village folks all in same color shirt with their village (or country) name proudly displayed. I understand that folks want a souvenir from SdC but why do they buy a walking stick with shell and gourd and walk around like a pilgrim without the obvious signs of blisters or injuries.
To see the pilgrims arriving brings back many different memories for me. Some with injured knees and ankles obvious by the braces and others with many plasters all over their feet and toes (seen when wearing sandals). They are limping and walking slowly, this was me in 2002 and 2007 before I worked on blisters and had many, ouch, and then in 2008, 2009, and 2010 with my knee problems.
This year backpacks are not allowed in the Cathedral so a backpack area is available in the building beside the Pilgrim Office. Pilgrims can leave their backpacks while searching for their needs in SdC (hotel/albergue etc.) or visiting the Cathedral.
Yesterday, when I saw the line to pass through the Porta Año Santo I thought oh no, not in this hot sun. For those who do not know, this door is only open during the Saints year and people come from around the world to pass through it. I asked the guard for the best time to visit, he told me 0830, 1500, or 1900 so before three o'clock I sat at Rolf's Bar and called Rolf to let him know I was once again thinking of him in Santiago. Not only Rolf am I thinking of my special friend Rolf but there are many pilgrims friends who come to mind, Roland, Kees, Wolf, Kim, Bauke, Maureen, Martin, Connie, Aard, Ashley, Steve they are all special people to me. I watched the line get smaller and smaller ... then went over and joined the line, I was in through the Porta Año Santo in ten minutes. This year you pass through the door and are directed one way through to Saint James then down to the crypt and outside. The Porta Gloria in unfortunately still undergoing reconstruction and cannot be seen. There are new Museo displays open for this year and it is excellent. I had a wonderful day rediscovering SdC.
I tried to load photos for the Blog but am afraid the computer is going to select all photos on my disk, so sorry no photos.
World Cup Semi Final
Spain vs. Germany
I just have to post this .... today on television I have seen twice the little dig at Germany: Adios Alemania/otro vez/podemos (Goodbye Germany/another time/we can). The folks are all wearing the Spanish colors or draped in the flag and the game is about to begin .... more later.
Sunday, July 04, 2010
Madrid
It is with great sadness that I mention the death of our friend John Diebold Ph.D. of Lamont Doherty Earth Observaory (LDEO). John was a good friend to me over our years at Lamont and I always enjoyed being in his company. John was a special person, a fantastic Bluegrass musician, and a well known scientist.
We were home for lunch with Vicente who had been at his Tienda for the morning and then in true Spanish style a siesta before our evening out.
Yesterday was Gay Pride day and there was a parade along Gran Villa. A huge number of folks were out to watch with many more in the parade which lasted from six till ten in the evening. The numbers were down a little because of the football game but one smart float had a big screen television tuned into the game, as it passed us the score was still 0:0. Not long after the crowd roared when David Villa gave Spain its winning goal.
We looked for a quiet place for dinner and found an exceptional Crepe restaurant which was just perfect, light and simple.
The evening was capped with champagne after midnight when the guys toasted my birthday.
The frescos are magnificent and were well worth a visit. There is also a nice statue of the artist opposite the Museo and for those who walk this way a cider bar on the other corner. From here we went by taxi (YEA!) to the Tienda. After closing time we went to a Gallego restaurante for a lunch of special Galician delights. Vicente mentioned to the waiter that were pilgrims and for that we were given a special delight at the end of the meal, a liquor from Santiago, the name I forget.
Now, as mentioned above it is siesta time and the guys are sleeping. I have been receiving telephone calls and SMS messages so the BlackBerry has been ringing, it is better that I am at the other end of the apartment.
Our night will continue with another game of Chinchon where I can try to redeem my scores.
Thank you to all for the messages and calls.
Museo Nacional del Prado - July 3
On a visit to Madrid the Prado should not be missed and so we started our day viewing the works of Velazquez, Rubens, Rembrandt, Goya and a Caravaggio (David victorius over Goliath). Yes, there was much more and one of my favorites was actually a sculpture titled, Isabell II Veiled by Camillo Torreggiani (1819-1896). This piece is beautiful and the viel over the face is so real. We were home for lunch with Vicente who had been at his Tienda for the morning and then in true Spanish style a siesta before our evening out.
Yesterday was Gay Pride day and there was a parade along Gran Villa. A huge number of folks were out to watch with many more in the parade which lasted from six till ten in the evening. The numbers were down a little because of the football game but one smart float had a big screen television tuned into the game, as it passed us the score was still 0:0. Not long after the crowd roared when David Villa gave Spain its winning goal.
We looked for a quiet place for dinner and found an exceptional Crepe restaurant which was just perfect, light and simple.
The evening was capped with champagne after midnight when the guys toasted my birthday.
Siesta time - July 4
My birthday and American Independence Day
Vicente suggested that we go by taxi and visit Glorieta San Antonio de la Florida in to see the frescos by Goya (his tomb is also there). Kees thought a different plan would work. Kees thought that we should pass by Plaza Mayor for desayuno (breakfast) and continue on by foot to the Glorieta San Antonio de la Florida. While at Plaza Mayor an SMS came in from Andrée so we called her for a chat as we had done with Dawn the day before. Kees is friends with both Dawn and Andrée so it was nice for him to have a chat with them. So, after a desayuno of pan con tomate, zumo naranja y café con leche we were off to San Antonio on foot and not by taxi. Kees is 6 foot 5 with long legs and fourteen years younger than me ... get it? By this time the temperature must have been in the low 30s C. and it was hot in the sun. The nice part of this, that Kees was correct he thought the walk took us past interesting sights of Madrid and it did, I was able to take lovely photographs.The frescos are magnificent and were well worth a visit. There is also a nice statue of the artist opposite the Museo and for those who walk this way a cider bar on the other corner. From here we went by taxi (YEA!) to the Tienda. After closing time we went to a Gallego restaurante for a lunch of special Galician delights. Vicente mentioned to the waiter that were pilgrims and for that we were given a special delight at the end of the meal, a liquor from Santiago, the name I forget.
Now, as mentioned above it is siesta time and the guys are sleeping. I have been receiving telephone calls and SMS messages so the BlackBerry has been ringing, it is better that I am at the other end of the apartment.
Our night will continue with another game of Chinchon where I can try to redeem my scores.
Thank you to all for the messages and calls.
Saturday, July 03, 2010
Madrid
I arrived in Madrid on Thursday to be with Kees for the July 4 weekend and the day was hot at 33 degrees Celsius.
We spent a hot night in the tired old Hotel Asturias with no A/C or fan. Leaving the windows open the noise from Calle Mayor and Puerta del Sol was horrendous. I do not recommend Hotel Asturias, Seville 2 if your visit is to be during Madrid's hot summer.
Yesterday Vicente returned home from Paris so we moved to his wonderful apartment. The apartment, built in the 1920´s, has large rooms with high ceilings and it feels light and airy - very comfortable. Here Kees and Vicente are on the steps in front of the wonderful old elevator. The temperature has dropped a little due to the thunderstorms Madrid has been having since yesterday around noon.
All around the neighborhood on stores, bars and restaurants there are beautiful tiled façades. Here, Kees and Vicente are in front of a local store. We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Restaurante Ginger in Hotel Percal (the hotel we wanted for our first night in Madrid but was 'Completo'). Last night Kees and Vicente taught me how to play Chinchon and of course ... I lost royally. Today is dark and gloomy and we have a visit to the Museo Nacional del Prado on our agenda but at the moment desayuno is almost ready.
To my friend Rebecca I send love and best wishes and ask my readers to send the same.
Perhaps more later ...
To my friend Rebecca I send love and best wishes and ask my readers to send the same.
Perhaps more later ...
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Burgos y Santo Domingo del Silos
Burgos
It is Fiesta time in Burgos this week and it was wonderful being there for this. Each day there was a street parade from the people of the various villages of Burgos all carrying huge baskets of flowers to the Catedral.
Local bars set up stands/stalls around town and for €2.20 they offer a glass of vino and one hot, one cold Tapas then the taster is asked to grade the Tapas. A winner will be announced at the end of the week and will be the Best Tapas Bar in Burgos till next year. Each night a superb fireworks show can be seen and the sounds can be heard all over the city.
Each afternoon there has been a thunderstorm and then I remembered the thunderstorms along the Meseta. Burgos is the start of the Meseta along Camino Fránces. I had a coffee at the same bar that Kim and I sat at before she headed off along Camino Fránces in 2007. I stayed on another day with Elke and Döerte. Poor Kim was caught in a thunderstorm that afternoon. Kim was soaking wet and telling herself she should have stayed with me but she needed to move on to meet Bauke in Léon. I sent Kim an SMS while sitting here as she was on my mind. This is the Camino!
Burgos is a beautiful old city in Centro. A huge ugly modern city surrounds Centro which is the view when coming in along Camino Fránces. The Cathedral is magnificent and the pride of the city is El Cid, his coffin is mounted high on the wall of a chapel.
There are many small churches that I have visited this year. I did not visit these churches on other Camino Fránces walks because as a pilgrim you are passing through, injured (for me blisters) or too tired. I have only one blister this walk, on my hand from the stick ... no feet blisters at all.
Santo Domingo del Silos
In this lovely golden (color of stones) village in the bar there is a PC for customers to use. I have a short time before I want to return to the church to hear the Gregorian chants. Here can be heard the famous Canto Gregoriano of Santo Domingo del Silos that many pilgrims told me about in 2002 and now finally I will hear them.
It is a two day visit to Santo Domingo del Silos as the bus from Burgos to Silos arrives too late to hear the service. Then the bus to Burgos returns at 0830 which is too early .... so you must stay here two nights and spend a quiet day in the village if you come by bus .... walking pilgrims can come as go when they please. However, most pilgrims come by bus giving themselves a two day break.
The Monasterio de Santo Domingo de Silos is Benedictine and has a beautiful cloister (photo), the church is simple but has that smell that I get wheezy from. I hope that I can last through vespers tonight.
Tomorrow I must be on an early bus and return to Burgos before taking the train to Madrid to spend the weekend with Kees and Vicente. Yay, I am spending some days with my beautiful friend and meeting Vicente at long last.
I hope all is well for you all ....
It is Fiesta time in Burgos this week and it was wonderful being there for this. Each day there was a street parade from the people of the various villages of Burgos all carrying huge baskets of flowers to the Catedral.
Santo Domingo del Silos
It is a two day visit to Santo Domingo del Silos as the bus from Burgos to Silos arrives too late to hear the service. Then the bus to Burgos returns at 0830 which is too early .... so you must stay here two nights and spend a quiet day in the village if you come by bus .... walking pilgrims can come as go when they please. However, most pilgrims come by bus giving themselves a two day break.
Tomorrow I must be on an early bus and return to Burgos before taking the train to Madrid to spend the weekend with Kees and Vicente. Yay, I am spending some days with my beautiful friend and meeting Vicente at long last.
I hope all is well for you all ....
Friday, June 25, 2010
Puente la Reina
Today I have finished walking along the Via Tolosana and Camino Aragones routes finishing here in Puerta la Reina, Spain. Standing here to key this page in I hesitate to say walking. Yes, tired as I am after a day walking, there is not a computer chair so I must stand to key in my Blog. Yuk!
Along the way I have met some wonderful folks Eugenia y Migeul (Madrid), Fernando y Ricardo (Canarias), Christiana und Edmund (Cologne, Germany) and then the lovely Brigita (Germany) who is lost to us now, she is possibly a day or two behind. We all finish walking in Puerta la Reina and in celebration will have dinner together tonight.
The Gite at L'Isle - Jourdain
It was very cold and wet in Canfranc Estacion, Spain so I took the train to Jaca (a traditional starting point for Camino Aragones) and I decided that this is where I would start my Camino Aragones. It was a good decision as finally the sun was shining. It felt wonderful to be home in Spain with familiar foods, bars, language and more. As I wrote to Garry be careful what you wish for as now not only was the sun high in the sky with no clouds but each day was hotter than the one before.
This pilgrim cannot stand much longer, and I want to check email, so I will finish for today.
I am going to Burgos tomorrow and will spend a couple of rest days there before continuing on. Given the opportunity I will Blog again in Burgos.
Along the way I have met some wonderful folks Eugenia y Migeul (Madrid), Fernando y Ricardo (Canarias), Christiana und Edmund (Cologne, Germany) and then the lovely Brigita (Germany) who is lost to us now, she is possibly a day or two behind. We all finish walking in Puerta la Reina and in celebration will have dinner together tonight.
Via Tolosana
The best way I could describe the 2010 Via Tolosana walk was, wet. It rained every day that I was in France - sometimes drizzling soaking rain and at other times torrential downpours with thunder and lightening. France was suffering major flooding in some areas and every day on the television they showed streets like rivers with cars being thrown around like white water rafts. So I walked, took a bus, a train, sometimes a taxi, but still when I stopped for the day there was rain. This did not detract from the spectacular views at the times when the rain would ease.
Go on you try it ..... I did, and I poured coffee down the front of my shirt. In all my travels I have never been served coffee in a cup with a handle set this way, have you? BTW all the cups in this Bar were like this not just one.
Auch, Gascony
I stayed in some nice Gites but otherwise in small hotels, especially when I could not find the Gites. Gites in France are not as easy to find as albergues in Spain, there is a sad lack of good signage. It is still raining in France.
So wet ... the rain does not ease up, it continues.
Col du Somport
Walking this way the Pyrenees crossing is over Col du Somport, from Oloron Sainte Marie (France) to Canfrac Estacion (Spain). I crossed Col du Somport by bus as had been suggested to me by the woman in Toulouse who issued my pilgrim passport (credential). The route is spectacular although maybe because it was cold, damp, rainy and I was feeling blue, I am not sure that I could walk this way, to me it looked tougher than Route Napoleon from Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP).Camino Aragones
Canfranc Estación
The 1928 station that has been abandoned since the 1970's after an International train accident took out a bridge along the way. It is a beautiful old building and such a shame to see it fall into disrepair. I wish that I was a millionaire as I would restore this building and turn it into a hotel.
Santiago in Jaca
The 16th century Citadel (San Pedro Castillo)
This pilgrim cannot stand much longer, and I want to check email, so I will finish for today.
I am going to Burgos tomorrow and will spend a couple of rest days there before continuing on. Given the opportunity I will Blog again in Burgos.
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